I am fortunate to have recently spent a day working alongside James Rutter of famed Neal's Yard Dairy. He was a pleasure to work with and made me remember that England produces so much excellent cheese other than cheddar. This inspired me to make a British themed cheese plate showcasing some highlights. The one cheddar I included is actually American-made, but in the English style, being that it is wrapped in cheese cloth and rubbed down with lard. The other three cheeses are UK originals. I even included some gnarled teeth as one of the accompaniments to (stereotypically) hint at the theme.
Starting clockwise with the half tangerine at 12 o'clock and the honeycomb at six we have -
Ticklemore: A young, fluffy goat milk cheese made at Sharpham Estate in Devon, the adorable Ticklemore has a whipped, airy texture almost like a sponge cake coated in unsweetened whipped cream. Very mild and un-goaty, it's reminiscent of coconut. The colander the cheese is formed in gives it a squat, ridged shape resulting in a pearly UFO appearance.
Stichelton: I love UK blue's: Strathdon. Harbourne. Bright orange Shropshire. Stilton with Bing cherry confiture could very well be the death of me. But all are pasteurized and I like to live dangerously. After having Joe Schneider's Stichelton, essentially a raw-milk Stilton style, that all changed. This blue has so many layers of flavor ranging from savory to sweet to grassy and bright to earthy. And the blue mold never overwhelms; rather it acts as a perfect compliment to the unpasteurized full-fat, full flavored milk.
St. James: Two of my favorite things converge in this Cumbria made delicacy: It's made with rich, nutty sheep milk, and it is covered by the stinky, sticky b.linens of a washed rind. Also it's square shaped, which I have an odd affection for in cheeses. St. James tastes of salty smoked meat and is intensely barnyard-y. Usually the most ignored style on a plate (unless you run with mostly French folks), I say More for me!
Bleu Mont Bandaged Cheddar: Wisconsin "Mad Scientist" Willi Lehner makes this beautiful cheddar style cheese, usually aged to around 14 months. I picked this for my platter rather than a traditional English Farmhouse cheddar because cheeses like Montgomery's are pretty easily found in this country now, and as a nod to American makers who are doing a really wonderful job reinventing old recipes. Plus this cheese just drives me crazy. It's bright and grassy, but also musty and cellar-y, with toasted nut and brown butter notes and a touch of something sweet. Hands down my favorite cheddar I've tasted to date.
So if you find yourself in London please go visit the hard working Neil's Yard Dairy clan. It's a place that should be on any cheese enthusiast's bucket list. A visit will disprove the long standing cliche that the English have bad food. As for the bad teeth, I'll have to wait until my own trip there before I'm convinced.
