Friday, April 20, 2012

A series of photos intended to make you jealous of me



 Pyrrate - wild, mystical forest-dweller

 Super pregers!

 Sophie

 Door to cheese




 Hillis Peak pre brushing and oiling...

 ...and after


 This is what happens when you drink and carriage ride



 The barn, with Hillis Peak in the distance

 The Island of Misfits




 Aging room

 Sweet, sweet Grenache

 Vivian with a crown of straw

lil' Bridgette

 "Wild" bunny

 Stinky bucks. Well the black and white one on the left is actually a doe who decided to be a boy. They call her/him It's Pat! (from SNL). This is Oregon, so more power to you Pat!

 Evil, evil hens


Piper (aka my Cougar bait) and I went to the top of Turkey Hill

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Gianaclis's Goat Whey Ricotta


What would you do with all that whey? Whey is the liquid that remains after the coagulation of milk in the  cheesemaking process. It is mostly water, but is also rich in protein and lactose.

After making the first cheese batch of the season (those are Elk Mtn. curds at the bottom of the vat) we were swimming in whey, and since Pholia is a farm that wastes as little as possible, pouring it down the floor drain wasn't an option. And why would we? Whey has many uses: It makes tasty pork when fed to hogs, it can be used as a land application for plants, and it can be turned into ricotta, to name a few. There are currently no hogs on the farm (besides yours truly), and apparently only specific plants will benefit from whey. Ricotta won.

As the whey heats, the remaining milk solids start to surface. Chunky.

Ricotta, meaning to cook again in Italian, is a fresh cheese that traditionally is just reheated whey, though commercially is often made with whole milk and set with an acid (lemon, vinegar) to produce a higher yield product. Home cheesemakers use the milk/acid method, but the folks who's livelihood is being a Milk Magician get the real thing.

Making this type of cheese is almost too easy. We threw the pot on the stove, cranked the heat up to high, and carried on with other activities, of which there always many on a farm. Once the solids have risen to the top, turn the heat off, stir, and...

Scoop

Rest

Drain

Voila!

After it cooled, we tubed it and popped it in the fridge. Contrary to the rule, fresh cheese is probably the only style of cheese that is better when not served room temperature. Later that night we sprinkled the ricotta with nutmeg and cardamom, topped it with a sliver of honeycomb and some biscotti for scooping. The cheese was rich and delicate, best suited for a dessert. Turning it into a savory dish would have only masked the subtlety of this recooked cheese. Goat ricotta - who knew?

Thursday, April 5, 2012

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Knee deep in goat placenta and elbow deep in curds

My life is about to change. This scares me.

Borrowed from Pholia Farm's Facebook page - hope they don't mind...

For the next eight weeks, given if I have the time to write, this blog will be taking a new direction. I will no longer be mongering and munching my days away in San Francisco. Rather I get to be on the other side of the cheese spectrum. I'm leaving the retail and consuming side to become a producer. At least for now.

Pholia Farms, on the beautiful Rogue River in southern Oregon, was nice enough to take a chance on a city girl like me to come help them with their cheesemaking and kidding. Baby goats are called kids, so Springtime (when they are born) is the kidding season. I'm not kidding. But I will be soon! (ha, sorry)

Pholia farm-boss Gianaclis Caldwell is a bit of a cheese maverick: She makes an outstanding product, writes books on cheese, teaches classes, and runs a completely off the grid operation. Her prize winning herd consists of Nigerian Dwarf goats, which means they stay pretty small their whole lives, which translates to me having a cute-attack.

BABIES! Again, borrowed from Facebook

Interestingly, these tiny animal's milk has the highest butterfat content of any other breed of goat used for cheesemaking. I haven't visited the farm yet, but I have had their cheese. Unlike most goat cheeses - clean, lean, bright, refreshing - the aged, raw milk tommes are rich and buttery; more akin to sheep's milk than goat's. Plus the wheels that have come in recently are pretty breathtaking.


The rind on this wheel of Hillis Peak reminds me of a Chinese print of fish scales, or maybe a woman's stocking. The dusty blues, grays and greens just barely reveal a burnt red under-hue (courtesy of a paprika and oil rub on the cheese when it's young). The rind visually intrigues, and the paste, tasting distinctly of pistachios, does not disappoint.

Holy crap - I get to make this stuff! Stay tunned...